Amazing enough – AURORA took
2nd place on leg 15:
That was because we ran our
engine very little compared to the other fleet boats. It was enough to get Eilo up on her feet:
On the way in we could hear Salvador
warming up for Carnival – and there we could see them getting ready:
8 Miles off Captain Ken heard a really low
droning sort of noise and was wondering what that was? In other words - what was about to break? Lucky it was only the bass notes coming from
some nightclub in town at 3 in the morning.
As we got closer we found many different bands playing in various clubs
along the coast… obviously warming up for Carnival. The town is on 2 levels and we made good use
of the elevator near the Marina, which would lift us from the strip of land
near at the sea which was just a few feet above high tide, about 500 feet to
the historic district the whole area being a UNESCO site. Plenty of old churches:
some very ornate:
and retail/housing buildings dating as far back as the 17 and 1600’s :
And the odd palace:
All the streets in the
historic center are cobblestone icing this historic cake:
You could not escape the
warm-up for Carnival – it was everywhere from the drumming bands combing town
you could hear approaching blocks away:
To the garb the locals were
sporting:
More decorations being
installed daily:
They obviously take this very
seriously and must spend a huge amount of dinero making it happen. And then it happened from
February 9th to the 13th.
Each day around 5:00 in the afternoon the mayhem starts and it does not
end until 5:00 in the morning. Carnival
occurs in 5 separate parts of Salvador.
About 4 million people attend each day which makes it the largest street
party in the world. We checked it out 3
nights out of 5. The first night we went
to the Barra district and checked out the Electronicos:
These are huge “Low Boy”
trucks outfitted with scaffolding making them about 20 feet wide, up to 90 feet
long and up to 30 feet high. They hang
speakers off all sides and cover them with huge plasma screens. The speakers and screens hide the
generators. On top is a stage with full
lighting providing space for the Brazilian pop artists, their bands and their
groupies and everything they require. In
essence each electronico is a self contianed rolling rock and roll
concert. The artists spend about 4 hours
preforming as they are pulled through the street at a slow and very very loud
pace. Then there are the rest of us
either hanging out in relatively safe purpose built balconies (camarotes) erected
next to the route which have food and drink and all the other things one needs
to survive or you can tough it out in the street with the rest of the crazies. Note that they also have everything they need
– the yellow boxes lining the street are filled with very cold beer:
The next night we went up to
Carnival in the old part of town. The
streets are not wide enough for the Electronicos so the carnival there marches
past in full regalia. Costumes span the
spectrum from flamboyant:
to scary:
So we wandered around for
hours and consumed our share of the 10,000,000 cans of beers consumed each
night at this festival. One needs to
stay focused on the whole show including watching the processions pass or you
could miss something:
What they can’t accomplish
marching by is performed on one of the many sound and light stages set up
around the old town;
We were burned out after
night three so we cast off and AURORA took a break to a little Brazilian beach
vacation spot called Morro de Sao Paulo:
It’s always great to check
out where the locals vacation;
It is also good, or maybe
not, to know how you might be treated if you fall foul of health – if a ride in
this ambulance does not kill you it will make you stronger:
And the gang from the OWL, SANDVITA,
TULLA MHOR, and AURORA was in rare form and very appreciative of the
opportunity to visit this little piece of paradise:
Tomorrow we are off again for
a port in northern Brazil, Cabedelo, 450 miles distant and on the 1st
of March are heading off on the final leg of this WARC to Granada where we will
catch you up again.
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