Valentines with Captain Ken

I found the BVI getting old and myself getting anxious.  When more than 50% of the bar tenders on any island know your name it’s time to leave.  Finally – our first passage.  We decided to head to St. Martin almost directly east of the BVI, 92 miles away.  An easy day and overnight sail if everything goes according to plan.  It’s always better to have an OK plan and execute it in mediocre fashion than to have a much worse plan and execute it well… more later on that.  We had a predicted 20 knot wind blowing directly from the east, right from the direction we needed to head so we were either going to have to tack often and beat into that wind for about 30 hours or we could head way north first and then just take a few tacks to get to St. Martin – much longer but better - says I.  There was also some weather predicted but there is always weather predicted – bring it on, says I.  We got up at day break and no wind so I decided to motor north of Anegada and then hope for the wind to come up so we could close haul a port tack to our destination.  All was good.  As we approached Anegada we saw a pair of fairly large whales heading south (very nice) and then had 4 bottle nose dolphins playing off our bow for a few minutes.  I still felt good.  The wind was building.  I hauled up the main with a single reef as she was blowin’ about 15 kts as we went around the east end of Anegada and turned south east and let out the Genoa also with a decent reef then went to stop the engine and the engine would not shut down.  I turned the helm over to Eilo and headed down to the engine room to do some trouble shooting as the swells, which were only about 6 feet stared to build.  I called the guys (while we were still in the range of the last cell tower) who had supposedly put the engine back into reliable condition and they were of little help so I figured it looks like we will now be motor sailing.  That worked for a while but I lost patience and with Eilo on the helm I headed below to put a pair of vise grips on the fuel line just as the first squall hit.  Eilo did great. When I got back topside Eilo was still on a port tack but now we were heading directly back to Anegada – the wind had shifted 180 degrees – piss me off. So we jibed her and pointed back toward St. Martin.  It was now getting dark and finally the engine stopped.  The wind had died down to almost nothing but this huge black cloud was bearing down on us from the south east and then blotted out what little moon light was available. It stared to rain and within what seemed like a minute we had a savage amount of rain falling and the wind picked up in an instant to what must have been over 40 knots.  We almost got knocked down as I lost helm when most of the rudder came out of the water and luckily the wind was shifting so when we popped back up I was on a controllable close hauled reach and held that for a fairly hectic 15 or 20 minutes until the squall passed and the wind shifted 180 degrees again and then died.  We were soaked so we furled the genoa and climbed below and changed.  I took the channel locks off the fuel line and went to start the engine and she fired right up... I do believe in miracles.  The wind stared to pick up again so we put the genoa out and started motor sailing.  We got hit by 2 more “lights-out” squalls that night and managed them well but the shifting winds were turning this into a longer trip.  As the day broke we were still about 70 miles from St Martin. Took us most of next day to get to anchor.  So we managed to turn a recommended 92 mile 28 hour motorsail from the southeast corner of the BVI to St Martin into a 150+ mile 36 hour s**t fest.  The moral of this chapter is …plan well by following the well documented advice of the others who have gone before you and wait for the right weather.  On the up side St. Martin is a wonderful island.  We have been here for a week so far.  We also have sorted out the main engine so it now starts and stops on command which has put a smile back on my face.

So…you just read Ken’s version of what happened and …mostly I agree.  But let me give you my impressions.  I did not want to set off in winds that were not desirable but recognized, and sympathized, with Ken’s impatience.  We had waited for so long and the only downside…according to Captain Ken was that the journey would take longer than we had originally planned.  I was anxious about an overnight sail but Ken spoke of moonlight and stars and the wonders of the ocean when viewed by moonlight.  It was Valentine’s Day and so the lure of moonlit and starry skies and seas beckoned…And so the reluctant sailor reluctantly went with the new  plan.

It seemed a long way to Anegada but the weather was fine, the whales were impressive and lifted our spirits…and the dolphins….wait for it….Ken pronounced that they brought us good luck.  It was shortly after that when the engine wouldn’t stop and the first squall hit and Ken was below while I hung on to the helm.  The boat was heaving through demented rain and huge waves, then being swallowed in troughs of darkness while water swept over the entire deck and liberally showered me.  I wondered why my week’s training hadn’t prepared me for this…

The journey is best described as: totally bloody dark, wet, stormy, with unpredictable winds which tortured Ken by changing every time he felt we were on course.  Ken was laser focused on the helm and I relieved him when necessary, fed him and made tea.  The latter most interesting on a gas stove while the boat travelled up and down over waves and through troughs and side to side with winds.  Have to say that these stoves (we have a Force 10) with gimbals and pot holders are incredibly well designed.  We were never dry as it rained through squalls and the sea water swept across the decks and through the cockpit. During the voyage we both managed to sustain minor injuries which added to the challenges of the trip.  I cannot describe the joy at seeing dawn slowly light up the world…we still had hours ahead and it was still squally but at least we could now see.  Only issue was there was nothing to see and I was very interested in land.  The squalls continued and the waves and troughs punished us all the way to our destination.  By the time we arrived we were exhausted and drained.  So much for Valentines, moonlight etc. 

Yes, St Martin is great and we have made friends and are enjoying ourselves…but we remain…Captain Ken and the reluctant sailor.